Decorative Elements & Ornaments
The selection gathers folk motifs flattened into vector, Baroque scrollwork and Art Deco geometry redrawn from printed sources, ornament borrowed from Egyptian and other ancient systems, botanical silhouettes built for arranging, and painted watercolor sprigs. Each one dates a design fairly precisely.
Decorative elements: ornament as punctuation, and how much of it to use
Ornament and type look like two separate crafts now, one drawn and one set, but for most of the history of printing they were handled the same way by the same person, and that is still the most useful way to think about what these elements are doing on a page.
The oldest of them is the ivy leaf, or hedera, which in Greek and Latin texts was set into the line to divide one passage from the next, so it worked mostly as punctuation. When printing came along, fleurons were cast as individual pieces of metal type and dropped into the line beside the letters and numbers, which meant a printer could close a chapter, break up a list, or build an entire border out of repeats without having to commission any artwork at all. Aldus Manutius started using a vine leaf in his editions around 1501, and that shape has been known as the Aldine leaf ever since.
None of that has really changed apart from the tools. An ornament still earns its place by marking something, e.g., a break, an ending, a corner that needs a bit of weight, and it gets judged against the type it sits with. It also stops working as soon as it turns up everywhere, since a mark that appears under every single heading is no longer marking anything in particular.
Where ornament still earns the space
- Book interiors: chapter openers, section breaks, drop caps and tailpieces.
- Certificates, diplomas and official documents.
- Wedding stationery, orders of service and event menus.
- Wine, whisky and heritage packaging, often as foil or an embossed panel.
- Restaurant identities and hand-painted style signage.
- Monograms, crests and quality marks.
- Editorial pull quotes and long-read layouts that need a break with some weight to it.
Using ornament so it means something
Make every ornament mark something, and take out the ones that do not. A flourish closing a section is earning its place, but put the same flourish under all the headings, and it turns into wallpaper. The bigger problem is that ornament compounds, so a decorated initial, a rule, corner pieces, and a bordered panel all land on one page, each canceling the others, and you finish with no emphasis anywhere despite having tried multiple times.
Size it against the type it sits with, not against the space you have. Find the size where the heaviest stroke in the ornament looks about as heavy as the text, then nudge it into place by eye against the x-height, because the visual center of a flourish is rarely where the bounding box says it is. Center it on the coordinates and it will look right at 400% and slightly off at actual size, which is the only size anybody sees it at.
And remember that this material comes with a date attached, whether the brief wanted one or not. Baroque scrollwork puts the work somewhere, Art Deco geometry puts it somewhere else, folk motifs somewhere else again, and the client who asked for timeless will read that period before they read anything you actually designed. Where you do not want the reference, a plain rule will break the page just as well and say nothing at all.
Where the ornament in these sets comes from
- Folk art. Regional motifs, e.g., birds, flowers, animals, geometric bands, flattened into vector. Symmetrical by tradition and built to repeat.
- Period ornament. Baroque scrollwork, Art Deco geometry and classical detailing, redrawn from printed sources. Each one dates a design fairly precisely.
- Ancient and archaeological. Motifs lifted from Egyptian and other early decorative systems, where the shapes were originally symbols.
- Botanical elements. Leaves, stems, and flower shapes reduced to simple silhouettes.
- Painted ornament. Watercolor sprigs and decorative marks, raster and fixed in size.
A frame encloses content; decorative elements punctuate it. Dividers, corner pieces, flourishes, vignettes, rules, and drop-cap ornaments work as typographic punctuation: they mark a break, close a section, weight a corner. That changes how they are judged: an ornament is placed relative to type and reads as part of the text block, not as a container around it.
Both, and the difference matters at handoff. Ornament and dingbat fonts are set as type, which means they align to the baseline, inherit size and color from the text, and stay editable — but they depend on a font license that may not permit web embedding or handing the file to a client. Vector ornaments carry no such dependency and can be edited as shapes. For anything a client will maintain themselves, vector is the safer delivery.
Optically, not numerically. Ornaments rarely have their visual center at the geometric center of the bounding box, so centering by coordinates puts the flourish slightly off against the type. Set it to a size where its heaviest stroke matches the text's weight, align by eye against the x-height, and check at final size. The misalignment that is invisible at 400% is the one that shows in print.
Engraved and hatched ornaments cannot. The hatching describes light falling from one direction, and a mirrored copy lights the same object from the opposite side, which the eye reads as wrong even when the shape is correct. Flat and line-based ornaments mirror without trouble. Where a symmetrical pair is needed from a hatched source, look for one supplied as a matched left-right pair.
The test is whether the ornament marks something. A flourish that separates two sections is doing work; the same flourish repeated under every heading becomes texture and stops being read. Ornament also compounds: a decorated initial, a rule, corner pieces, and a bordered panel on one page each dilute the others. Choose the one place the page needs emphasis and leave the rest plain.
Solid shapes and a raised minimum weight. Specialty finishes are supplied as separate artwork in 100% of a single color with no gradients, tints, or open strokes. They also hold less fine detail than litho: hairlines that print correctly will fill in on a foil die or lose definition under an emboss. Set a floor for stroke weight with the finisher and thicken the ornament to it.